Frequently Asked Questions
See some of our most frequently asked questions for artificial grass.
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We recommend approximately 5kg of kiln-dried silica infill sand per square metre as standard.
Regular white wash sand is made up of sharp particles that will damage the blades of your artificial grass over time with foot traffic. We recommend only using kiln-dried silica sand be used as infill sand. Silica sand has round and semi-round particles.
Infill sand serves several purposes. It covers the backing of the artificial grass between the blades, which both protects the backing from excessive UV exposure for longevity, as well as keeping it cooler. Infill sand is also needed to keep the blades of the turf standing upright, and returning to it’s upright position when walked on. Artificial grass blades are directional and lay flat when it comes off the roll. Brushing up the grass and applying a layer of infill sand supports the blades at the base where it bends at the base of the stitch.
Our rolls of landscape turf are 4 metres wide or 2 metres wide.
Sketch your area and note all perimeter measurements. Determine how many square metres your area is- this will tell you how many cubic metres of cracker dust you may need, roughly how much sand will need to be removed, and how much infill sand to apply after the artificial grass is installed.
Determine what lengths of artificial grass you will need to cover your area, squaring off sections that are not at a right angle. Keep pieces running in the same direction and find out the available roll widths for your choice of artificial grass. Factor in additional width and length to allow for cutting in your artificial grass to fit your area.
Pet urine can leave uric acid crystals in your infill sand and cracker dust causing it to smell if not washed straight away. Turfresh will break down these crystals and eliminate the urine smell and is also completely safe for people and pets. See more information on Turfresh here. Now in stock at Tauro Turf!
To install your artificial grass, you will need tools for distributing and levelling your cracker dust base, as well as the use of a compactor to compact your cracker dust. Depending on how much soil you need to remove from the area prior to adding your cracker dust substrate, you may choose to dig out your area by hand, use a machine to excavate the area, or pay someone to excavate for you.
When your area is prepared, you will need a Stanley knife/ box cutter to cut in your artificial grass and a hammer to hammer in the turf pegs around the perimeter of your turf (where installing onto cracker dust).
You can use a stiff bristled garden broom to brush up your artificial grass or a power broom to make light work of standing up your grass blades. Artificial grass infill sand can be distributed by cutting slits in the bottom of the sand bag, or alternatively a drop spreader can be used for easy, even distribution.
See our DIY guide for more information, or chat with us.
Cracker dust can be installed at a depth of 50-100mm.
Cracker dust is sold in cubic metres. Use the equation square metres x cracker dust depth to calculate how many cubic metres you may need, For example, and area that is 4metres x 5metres will be 20 square metres in size. If installing cracker dust to a depth of 70mm, use the equation 20 square metres x 0.07 to determine the cubic metre amount.
To install u-shape turf pegs around the perimeter of your artificial grass, hammer them in as close to the edge as you can at approximately 300mm intervals. Before you hammer in the last inch of the head of the peg, move the grass blades out of the way so they don’t become trapped under the head of the peg. Trapping the grass blades will make visible dents in your artificial turf when viewed from a distance. You can also choose to install pegs along the length of your joins, and randomly through the entire area.
The two tricks to a good artificial grass join can be found in the spacing and in the joining of two pieces.
- The spacing.
Looking at the back of the artificial grass, you can see the spacing between the stitches. When joining two pieces, you will want to create a space that is consistent with this spacing. To do this, it is recommended that you carefully cut the edge of one of the pieces to be joined close to the stitch, and the other away from the stitch, to help keep the space between the two pieces consistent with the rest of the turf. Butting the pieces up too close to each other may “mo-hawk” the grass blades, meaning the extra thickness of the blades along the join will create a visible inconsistent line, and an ever-visible join.
- The Joining.
When you have positioned your two pieces of artificial grass at a proximity from one another that you are happy with, and having brushed up the join with your hand to check that they blend together well, you will want to use joining tape down the entire length of the join to make your join flat and permanent.
Mark the centre of the join (with a score in your cracker dust for example) at both ends so you know where to run the tape before flipping the edge of both pieces of grass out of the way. Use turf pegs or nails to secure your taught length of joining tape, adhesive side up, along the length of your join. You may wish to place additional pegs at intervals along the tape if it is a longer length and/or there is any wind.
Remove the paper backing of the tape, revealing the strong adhesive. Flip your pieces of grass back over and down onto your joining tape from one end to the other. Apply pressure along the length of the join to make sure it is bonded all the way along.
Many people install artificial grass straight over the top of an existing hard surface, including decking, concrete and pavers. You will need to consider how you will secure your turf, as you won’t be able to nail the edges down with turf pegs.
Applying artificial grass infill sand is still recommended to help the blades of your artificial grass stay upright.
Like many outdoor surfaces, artificial grass in direct sunlight on a very hot day may become uncomfortably warm to stand on. It is direct sunlight that will warm up your synthetic turf, so any area in part or full shade should stay nice and comfortable. If you want to use your area bare footed on a hot day, and testing the temperature you have found that it is too warm to stand on, you can give it a very light sprinkle of water with the hose to cool it instantly.
Artificial grass has drainage holes added during the manufacturing process. If installed over cracker dust, water will be able to drain through to the sand below. The rate of drainage has many factors, including the size and slope of your area, how much rainfall is received at one time, and the drainage properties of your sand.
It is not recommended that you frequently drive or park on artificial grass. Much like heavy furniture on carpet, the weight of a vehicle on artificial grass can leave flat areas on your grass.
The warranty on our landscape range of synthetic turf is 8 years. This covers our artificial grass against fading and loss of integrity caused by normal exposure to the sun, as well as any fault in manufacture.
Read more about our Tauro Turf Warranty.
There can be a considerable difference in price between types of artificial grass. Not all artificial grass is equal, and it can be tricky to compare the quality of artificial grass between suppliers. Our Tauro Turf landscape range of artificial grass costs between $20-$25/sqm for supply only. We also sell artificial grass matting for $15-$17/sqm.
See other FAQs for information and pricing on installation.
Cracker dust, also known as crusher dust or blue metal dust, is available at select landscape yards around Perth. Prices vary for supply and delivery. As a rough guide, you might expect to pay around $80 per cubic metre to collect. Check with your local landscape yard for pricing.
Cracker dust, also known as crusher dust or blue metal dust, is available from select landscape yards around Perth. You will need to add a layer of compacted cracker dust as a substrate when installing artificial grass over sand. This stops movement underneath the artificial grass which would otherwise cause bumps. The cracker dust also provides a firm base to hold in your turf pegs.
U-shape turf pegs are hammered in around the perimeter of the artificial grass. This stops the edges of the grass from being scuffed up or tripped over. They can also be placed along joins and randomly through the middle of your artificial grass.
Self-adhesive joining tape is used to join two pieces of artificial grass. The rolls of grass are available in fixed width sizes. Therefore it is sometimes necessary to join two or more pieces together to fit your area. The tape is 150mm wide and is used along the length of any joining pieces of artificial grass.
Artificial grass infill sand
Infill sand (kiln-dried silica) is installed on top of your artificial grass once installed. The infill sand helps your artificial grass blades to stay standing upright. It also covers the backing of the grass, protecting it from the sun. As well as protecting the backing, it also keeps the artificial grass cooler in summer and weighs down the grass. Bags of infill sand are 25kg.
Some projects require garden edging or borders to be put into place before artificial grass can be installed. Consider your area and what is in place to contain the cracker dust.
Every installation is different. Therefore, it is impossible to give a price without a site inspection. As a very rough guide, full supply and installation might cost between $60-$80 per square metre. Smaller jobs may cost more than this per square metre.
Installation might include machine or manual excavation. Access to the area and quantity to be removed will need to be considered. For installation of your artificial grass over sand, you will need a cracker dust substrate. The Cracker dust is screeded or contoured to your area and compacted with a plate compactor. Finally, along with the artificial grass, you may need turf pegs, joining tape and artificial grass infill sand (kiln-dried silica).
You may also need to consider the installation of garden edging and borders if there are none already in place around your area.