Your piece of turf should be cut into pieces a little longer and wider than the area it needs to cover. Lay the pieces on the cracker dust in place, making sure to leave the turf overlapping edges, and making sure the stitches of your turf are all running in the same direction.
Where two pieces of turf join, flip the edges over to reveal the backing. Trim one piece of turf close to a line of stitching and trim the other piece of turf away from a line of stitching. Move the two pieces of turf into place so that the spacing is the same as the spacing between the stitches, and the join is not noticeable when you brush the blades up with your hand along the join.
Use a sharp Stanley knife to cut through the top of the turf around the perimeter of your area like you would carpet, pushing the turf into the edges and using the knife to find the border underneath.
After marking the centre of the join at either end, for example by scoring the cracker dust, flip over the edges of your turf at any joins to reveal the backing. Secure a length of joining tape from one centre to the other with a turf peg at either end and along the length where necessary before removing the backing to expose the glue.
Starting from one end, fold the edges of the turf back over and on to the joining tape, being careful to keep the blades of the turf away from the glue. Walk along the join to apply weight.
7. Peg the edges
Hammer turf pegs around the perimeter at roughly 300mm intervals as close to the edge as possible, making sure to not trap the turf blades under the head of the peg as you hammer them in.
8. Brushing up
Use a stiff bristled garden broom or a petrol power broom to brush up the synthetic turf blades.
8. Add infill
Distribute silica infill sand evenly over the brushed up turf, using approximately 2-5kg of sand every square metre, making sure to cover joins and edges.
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